Judean Desert to the Mediterranean

A hike in the desert, lunch in Jericho and a swim in the Mediterranean. Our fifth day was another expedition in Israel. 

We began our adventure in the Judean desert overlooking the Wadi Quelt. FYI – A wadi is another term for valley or ravine. Many times the edges of a wadi or their ground floor was used by travelers for roads. We all emptied out of the tour bus took a quick walk up a hill and over the other side was an expansive view overlooking part of the Judean desert and the Wadi Quelt. With rolling hills below us, the sun rising in the east and the heat escalating, we had the pleasure of having this imposing scene serve as our classroom while Aubrey taught for 30 minutes.

It was such a blessing to be apart of this group and have Aubrey as our instructor. I could not have imagined a better trip if I had chosen to study and tour alone with a small group. Aubrey added details, an abundance of scripture and emotion to her teaching at each inspiring and historical site we visited. Here at the ridge overlooking the desert she read Psalm 139, Jeremiah 2:6, Deuteronomy 1:19 and 32:8. Scriptures talked about the land we were presently in and how it was viewed in the Bible. It is spoken of as a dreadful place and hardly inhabited. Yet, for me who had security in the fact: I knew where my next meal was coming from and how I was getting out; it was a gorgeous sight to marvel at.

Our next adventure for the day was a hike along the Wadi Quelt. I didn’t know exactly what to expect, except that we were going on a hike through the Wadi Quelt and were ending up in Jericho. The hike was optional but most of the group chose to go. We passed St. George Monastery in the first portion of the hike. After that we continued along the upper ridge along the quelt. The hike was pretty much level the whole way through. To our left was a steep drop off to the valley canyon below and to our right was steep walls that possessed numerous caves.

Our hike in the Wadi Quelt

A few of us headed up the front of the group, when Lindi had a minor accident. She tripped and caught her toe on a rock. I have to mention Lindi and Lucas, if they read this I apologize, but these two adventurous duos chose to wear sandals! Albeit it would have been duable with any closed toe shoe but risky with sandals. Lucas made it out unharmed. Lindi unfortunately cut her toe pretty badly about half way through. Lindi is a tough cookie at 18, and once it was wrapped up as best it could be -- she finished without a peep. Her toughness challenged me the rest of the trip, but I still don’t think I’ll ever be as tough. The one thing I remember vividly is the heat! I had chosen not to put on any sunscreen and as a result I watched and felt myself burn through our walk. I soaked it in though cause I hadn’t been burnt yet, and I was still reveling in being in the sun. The whole not wearing sunscreen phase would soon disappear after that. 

A lesson in being in front: know where your going! As I was walking in the front, seemingly following a trail a small girl came up to me and said something. I thought she was just being kind and smiled back at her and kept walking. However as I quickly realized she was trying to show me the right way to go. An embarrassing story to round out the hike but you got to laugh at yourself sometimes I suppose.

We all finally made it out of the Wadi. At the end of the hike was another one of Herod’s palaces. Because of the climate and the fact Jericho is well below sea level; the location of the palace served as an escape from the winter season.  

Following our adventurous hike we piled back into the bus and headed into Jericho. Jericho possesses a tropical climate with mild winters. It is 820 feet below sea level and is considered the lowest city on earth. Archeological evidence suggests it may also be the oldest city on earth, but that is up for debate. What contributed to it is thriving history is good soil, controllable water source and early fortifications. In Judges 3:12 Jericho is referred to as the “City of Palms”. 1 Kings 16:34.

We ate lunch inside a restaurant in Jericho. We had our own packed lunch but were able to sit inside the air-conditioned place at tables. They were selling drinks to us, so I tried Turkish coffee for the first time. It was actually pretty good. They had a large gift shop downstairs. After lunch we walked around and checked out the goods. I ended up buying a poster of the city of Bethlehem. I was exhausted by the time lunch was finished and was looking forward to a quick nap before we stopped at our next site. However, as we pulled away and got back on the road I was still amazed at the views and decided against a quick nap.

http://www.temptationcenter.com/about.html/

Jericho: Leilani, Jackie and I

Our next stop was a Nebi Samuel. The site is the traditional buriel place for the prophet Samuel. It served more as a visual point as Aubrey taught class. As she was teaching we witnessed a fire start, in a family field below. We watched as the surrounding community rushed to the aid and helped put out the rapidly spreading fire. By the time we left the fire was controlled and for the most part out. Unfortunately the family had lost a bit of their crops.

Tel-Gezer was our next stop. It was a dramatic change in scenery. For we had come from the desert and had ended up in a lush green area of Israel, close to the coast. Aubrey taught for a while here and then we had a chance to go out and experience the area. I felt miserable at Gezer. I was hot, sweaty and tired. I was looking forward to going back and taking a shower. I regret not spending more time and checking Gezer out.

Our last stop was the beach! I felt miserable and hot, but was looking forward to cooling off in the water. Our final destination was Ashkelon. We all exited the bus quickly and went to change into our bathing suits. As soon as we jumped in I managed to swallow enough salt water to make me need fresh water ASAP. This was so frustrating, I don't swallow water - I never swallow water when I swim! And it seemed everyone was enjoying the salt water just fine. I ended up getting out a few times to borrow water from a gracious friend. When I got back in Leilani asked me if I had been stung. Stung? Apparently there were jellyfish in abundance and everyone was being affected. I brushed it aside cause I was fine.

I was amazed by the height of the waves. They were massive and I loved it. In Washington and Oregon the waves are puny but here you could swim out just a bit and experience actual waves. Then it came – I was stung– and it was painful! So on top of my throat burning from the salt water, my wrist was in pain. I finally got out of the water and someone took me over to the lifeguard who directed me to the first aid station, the women there sprayed some vinegar on it (I think thats what it was) on it and the pain actually subsided. It seemed the jellyfish had managed to wrap itself around my wrist and sting me about the whole way around it.

So Ashkelon was definitely an adventure. I got stung by a jellyfish and swam in the Med Sea for the first time and experienced actual waves. I would love to go back though because I never was able to venture over to where some of the archeological sites were in Ashkelon, like some had. Our trip to Ashkelon rounded out our fifth and final day for the first portion of the trip. The next day was a free day and following that would be our first exam.

Our group running into the water  at Ashkelon after a long and hot day
Photo Credit: Victoria B 

Dancing in Jerusalem: "Flash Mob" experience

On our 3rd night in Israel I decided to stay in and not venture out with a few others into the Old City. When Leilani came back that night I heard that they had bumped into someone who had asked them if they wanted to learn a dance from a dance professional from Tel Aviv who was directing a flash mob to kick off the Light Festival the following night. So they had ended up working on the dance that night on top of Mamilla Mall right outside Jaffa Gate.

Leilani, Jackie and Lindi tried to teach me a little of the dance before and I got some of it. But I was not confident or prepared to get out there and dance; yet I wanted to participate, just to say I did it. The following night, after dinner, we went out to practice the choreography a few more times before dark. The dance was taking place when it was dark and we were given light sticks to dance with, tying into the light theme that week.  

practicing the dance for the flash mob in Jerusalem

We all jumped in to begin working on the dance. We practiced a few times and then were told that we would be picked out according to our ability to form the first row, second, third and so on. Then I got nervous because I knew I didn't know the dance as well as the others and besides that I am not coordinated when it comes to someone else showing me how to dance. Long story short, after some confusing choreography; who would come in and at what time, we were ready to get the show on the road. 

We were told shortly after the sun began setting that the Prime Minister of Israel would be at the flash mob dance. However we weren't for sure. I got my camera out and prepared Dr. Painter to take a picture of any "important" person who happened to be in attendance lol. After repeatedly being told it was going to start, then that time passing and them telling us that same story again we finally were told to be ready. It was supposed to be like a regular scene at other flash mobs, people were walking around the top of Mamilla Mall in the courtyard area and then the music would start and the rows of dancers would soon form and finish the dance. Because so many people were aware that the dance was taking place because we had practiced there a lot of the people were mulling around in the same area. 

All in all it finally came together and we got the dance done. The Prime Minister ended up being the Mayor of Jerusalem. Apparently his bus had broken down below and him and his security had an interesting time making it to the top safely. 

Mayor of Jerusalem: Nir Barkat; far right

Mt. of Olives to Bethlehem: Day four

Wow…I can’t believe it has been so long since I posted something, I am only on day 4. Ahhhh.

Day 4 was a packed day, in fact I cannot believe we did all that we did on this day. A quick highlight:

            We began at Mt. Scopus, then went to Mt. of Olives. Down the road of the Mountain we ventured into the grounds of the Dominus Flevit Church, a site remembered for where Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem. We ended up at the Garden of Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations. We ate lunch at UN Hill. Lastly, we traveled to the West Bank and visited one of Herod’s Palaces, Herodium and then made our way to Bethlehem!

We began our day eating breakfast as usual. Breakfast at JUC was between 6-8am. However, we had to be at the bus pretty early in the morning. Wake up time for me was usually 5:30am so I could take a shower and have breakfast. If were really lucky we had to be at our tour bus at 7:45, other times it was by 7am. The Tour bus waited for us below the Mamilla Mall on a major road in the Hinnom Valley, just below Jaffa Gate. It took us about a 5-minute walk if we were fast to 10 minutes to get to the bus. It was a good warm up to the hiking and walking we would be doing the rest of the day.

Friday June 17^th was our fourth study day in Israel. We all packed on to our tour bus and traveled a short distance to Mt. Scopus, near Mt. of Olives. Mt. Scopus is east of Jerusalem across the Kidron Valley but in Jerusalem and visible from JUC. Mt. Scopus is named after the fact that it was considered a good “viewpoint” or place to “scope out” the surrounding region. On a clear day you could see the Mediterranean. Here we also visited a large 1^st century buriel tomb.

Our second stop was the Mt. of Olives. I was excited to visit the Mountain of Olives. It was definitely not what I expected. But again, I really hadn’t a clue of the terrain and geography of Israel before I came. I expected the Mt. to be…well a mountain; interestingly enough it is even described in the Bible as a “hill” (Luke 19:29). It gives a great view of Jerusalem, but is hardly a mountain, especially compared to the ones I see in Washington. On the Mt. of Olives are fully functioning roads so there was no hiking to the top, but we did make our way down, by walking down a road. On our walk down we saw the burial sites on the left and to the right were a variety church’s and church gardens. A tall stonewall paralleled our walk on both sides, giving the pathway character, sort of blocked view in some parts but nonetheless pretty. The view of Jerusalem was amazing. You could see the Mosque (Gold Dome, temple mt), Temple Steps, Hinnom Valley, Kidron Valley, City of David and much more.

Our Simpson Group from the Mt. of Olives

From the Mt. of Olives we walked down. All along the left side were buriel sites. The Senonian chalk on the Mt. of Olives makes this a prime location for tombs. Our first stop as we walked down the Mountain was the Dominus Flevit Church. This Church is dedicated to the spot where Jesus went and wept over Jerusalem. In Luke 19:28-38, Jesus is in Jerusalem riding down the Mt. of Olives, this scene is what we celebrate as Palm Sunday. “They brought it to Jesus, threw their cloaks on the colt and put Jesus on it. As He went along, people spread their cloaks on the road.”…Blessed is the king who comes in the name of the Lord! “Peace in heaven and glory in the highest!” (Luke 19:35-36,38).

Luke 19:41: “As he approached Jerusalem and saw the city, he wept over it and said, “If you, even you, had only known on this day what would bring peace- but now it is hidden from your eyes."

While the Dominus Flavit Church may not be the precise location of Jesus weeping over Jerusalem, the general location is close. The view from the Church is a great point of view of the city of Jerusalem. From inside the church the windowpane gives a nice profile of the Old City of Jerusalem.

Inside Dominus Flavit Church looking towards Jerusalem

We continued down the Mt. of Olives and our final destination was the Garden of Gethsemane. I hadn’t been aware that the Garden and the Mt. of Olives had been so close. The perimeter of the Garden was gated. We were able to walk around the whole perimeter. The Garden was beautiful, full of olive trees, vibrant flowers and other lush plants.

Garden of Gesthename 

Next to the Garden was the Church of All Nations. The Church was dedicated to the promise God made with Abraham. “I will make you into a great nation and I will bless you; I will make your name great, and you will be a blessing. I will bless those who bless you, and whoever curses you I will curse; and all the peoples on earth will be blessed through you.” Genesis 12:1-3. I thought the Church was beautiful inside. The entrance doors were grand and extremely tall. Inside the windows are made with purple alabaster and a cross marks each window. It is remarkable.

Inside the Church of All Nations: purple alabaster window panes

For lunch we traveled to the Richard and Rhoda Goldman Promenade on what is known as UN Hill because a UN building is located there. The Promenade had a terrific view of Jerusalem, Jordan the West Bank and the Dead Sea. From there we traveled to the West Bank and ventured to one of Herod’s palaces Herodium. Herodium was considered one of Herod’s great palaces, it possessed an open garden area and massive cisterns. Herod wanted to be able to see his Palace from Jerusalem. We were able to venture into a tunnel system there that was relatively expansive.

Our last stop of our fourth day in Israel was Bethlehem. Bethlehem is located in the West Bank, thus the Palestinians have majority control over this area. Due to this fact, and that Bethlehem is a popular tourist attraction because of it’s relativity to the site of Jesus’ birth the Palestinians are looking for way to make money off the large tourism. There is an obvious large resistance to charge people to visit “Holy Sites” so the Palestinians do not allow tour guides at the Church of Nativity. You must hire one of their tour guides. So as we entered the city Aubrey said that we were going to park our bus in a car garage and then from there she would quietly direct us where to go but for the rest of it we were on our own. We parked in the under ground car garage and took an elevator up to the main level. We walked out the mall type building and hit the street where we walked a few minutes to the church. There were Palestinian guards patrolling the area making sure there were no groups accompanying an unauthorized tour guide.

Stealing words from Dr. Painter’s blog he states: “The church is built over a cave which very early on was identified as the birthplace of Jesus. Though "traditional" is still a good term to use, the antiquity of the tradition is very impressive, making a strong case for the possibility that this is the actual site of Jesus' birth.” (Thanks Dr. Painter J) Aubrey noted that the church had not been taken care of, just like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. I would agree with her, it may be old, but for the fact that it could have been the birthplace of Jesus, the inside seemed remarkably beat up. I would definitely recommend making a trip to Bethlehem if possible if anyone does venture to Israel.

As we made our way back to the bus we decided to make a stop at Stars and Bucks, a coffee shop mimicking Starbucks. I think I ordered an iced caramel coffee or something like that and it was surprisingly good with added coconut on top! Unfortunately Israel possesses no Starbucks! So it was a nice ending to the day touring the land. 

As we were driving away from Bethlehem, prior to making our way across the border of the West Bank and Israel Dr. Beyer, a Professor from Columbia International University shared that there was a mural on the wall separating the two regions that I would want to get some pictures of. So he kindly traded places with me on the bus and allowed me to take some pictures of a mural which depicted Palestinians view on the wall. 

The wall has stirred major controversy since it was erected in 2001. After the 2001 Intifada (or "uprising") Israel built the wall to defend their land from suicide bombers coming from the region of the West Bank. The wall has strongly hurt commerce in the West Bank and has made it difficult for Palestinians to travel back and forth to earn an income in Israel. However, it served as a defensive measure for Israel and thus has stirred controversy of its necessity. The question, How do you keep your land safe without seriously affecting others lives? It is a question the US asks every day as well. Unfortunately, certain defensive measures need to be taken in order to maintain an adequate level of security and it does not always please everyone and affects many. But is some respects in order to be secure you lose other things in the process. It is a difficult, risky and challenging decision to make sometimes.